Machine polishing - Paint Correction Kit

Our full size DPX and compact MPX machine polishers are both Dual Action (DA) Polishers designed with safety in mind and as cost-effective solutions developed specifically to get professional results in the hands of any enthusiast. While modern DA polishers are capable of removing the same heavy defects as rotary polishers, there are a couple of key differences between the two and these are geared towards safety. Our DA (or random orbital) machines employ a free-floating spindle to promote pad rotation in two directions - both concentric circles from the head and a wider circulating motion from the spindle. This type of oscillation cuts down on premature heat build-up under the pad. A rotary polisher spins on a single axis, which builds up heat extremely quickly in a single spot. Furthermore, a rotary posher does not have a ‘stalling action’ like a DA. Modern dual action machines will stall – or stop spinning and simply vibrate – if the machine is on the edge of the pad, too much pressure is applied, or if the machine is held at an uneven angle. These safety measures make it almost imposable to burn through your paint using a DA polisher. For more on different machine polishers, and the lowdown on compounds, pads and techniques, see our full article – The Basic Guide To Machine Polishing.

This will always depend on the aggressiveness of the ‘combo’ - the combination of pad and compound/polish – you use with your DPX or MPX machine. This is because a combo with more cut will take away more of the top layer to level it down to the bottom of the deepest defect, essentially making the defect disappear. As a general rule of thumb though, a heavy cutting combo will take away approximately 5-6 microns and a fine refining polish around 1-2 microns of the top layer of paint or lacquer. To put this into context a human hair is around 70 microns thick, and average two stage OEM paintwork around 100-140 microns thick, including a clearcoat layer (the bit you’re polishing away) of around 45-70 microns. Single stage paintwork (topcoat without lacquer) is a little thinner and often softer, but again you’re only taking away a tiny amount when polishing a panel. On the vast majority of cars there will be plenty of clearcoat to polish, strike through - or burning through the top layer - only really happens due to poor techniques, or on older vehicles which have been repeatedly machine polished over the course of decades. Although the key is only to polish when your vehicle really needs it for enhancement or defect removal, it’s highly unlikely that you’ll be polishing through your paintwork. As for what combo to use for different types of defects including the dreaded swirl marks? Well, we’ve made that straightforward by developing our range of colour-coded compounds and pads specifically for use with our dual action polishers. These include our Revitalise System V2, (with all machine polishing compounds and pads available separately), and One Step All-in-One Compound. For more on those, and all the essential information about how polishes and compounds work, see our guide – All Car Polishes Explained.  

All silica or quartz-based ceramic coatings (such as those found in our products Ceramic Spray Wax, Aqua Coat Hydrophobic Rinse Aid, Lavish Ceramic Foam, Caramics Gloss Enhancer, Caramics Enhancing Shampoo, Wash 'n' Gloss, and our flagship Caramics Protection Kits), use a layer of chemically bonded silicon dioxide (SiO2) to create a barrier between the surface and the elements that’s impermeable to water and only possible to remove by abrasion. In all their forms, and regardless of their durability, ceramic coatings are intended to add the hardiest protection to surfaces and, although they’re also designed to level the optical finish of paintwork and vinyl (including paint and powdercoat on wheels) - allowing light to bounce back to the eye more uniformly to make the finish appear deeper and glossier - the glass-like layer they install is not intended to hide underlying paint defects. So, when it comes to full paint decontamination and paint correction, the application of coating will still be effective with regards to physical protection, gloss and water beading without carrying out these processes, but you will not correct or obscure any defects already in the paintwork. This is why we always recommend carrying out any swirl mark or other defect removal, along with surface cleansing, prior to application of any protection layer (ceramic, wax or sealant) if you’re not completely happy with the condition of your paintwork. Especially when using a product intended for the most extreme durability such as our Caramics Paintwork Protection Kit, which installs a coating that lasts for up to a year. For maintenance washes, where SiO2 products are used to top up previously applied ceramic protection, we would assume that any paint correction necessary would have been carried out before the initial application of the coating. For preparing the surface for your coating, it's essential to use a product that doesn't contain waxes or fillers that will block the adhesion of the coating, such as our Revitalise System V2 Compounds and One Step All-in-One Compound. For the full rundown on the science of ceramic coatings and how they work see our article – What Difference Does A Ceramic Coating Actually Make.

Aside from making sure surfaces are clean and free of contaminants, this always depends on the circumstances. Are you topping up wax protection from a previous full detail or adding wax protection for the first time? This is important because, first and foremost, polishing will remove any protection layer – the reason why we don’t use abrasives during routine maintenance, and only polish paintwork when it’s absolutely necessary. In this case of maintenance, we’d assume that any paint correction needed had been carried out before adding the first round of wax protection. When it comes to adding wax protection for the first time, we’d always recommend getting surfaces to the best possible level of refinement first. Although it’s wholly possible to apply a wax to car with swirly paint, and it will still bond, protect from grime and offer extreme water behaviour and beading, what it won’t do is hide any major defects, so essentially, you’ll be locking these in. Pure waxes are non-abrasives, so they’re not designed to correct or obscure defects in the surface underneath, they are purely for protection and to add extra gloss. So, for the best results, we’d always recommend correcting or enhancing any paintwork you’re not completely happy with the condition of, and fully preparing the surface, before applying any protection layer. The advantage with waxes over ceramic coating in this instance though, is that you don’t have to consider the chemical bonded needed for an SiO2 coating to adhere, so you can utilise any of our correction products and cleansers depending on the finish you require regardless of if they already contain waxes and paint glazes. This includes our Revitalise V2 System Compounds, One Step All-in-One Compound, Tripple All-in-One Polish and Rejuvenate Paintwork Cleanser. For more information, and some top tips on preparing your vehicle for a hard wax, see our full guide - Getting The Most From A Hard Wax. 

The great thing about silica-based (SiO2) ceramic coatings is that they’re specifically developed to help your vehicle look better for longer. The hardy protection layer they install is essentially chemically bonded silicon dioxide, which is like glass, so it smooths the surfaces enough to prevent water molecules and grime from bonding. Regardless of application to paint, glass, vinyl or any other exterior surface, this is why they bead to the extreme and offer the longest lasting protection of any product. What’s most important here is that grime will sit on top of the ceramic layer rather than sticking, and this makes cleaning easier. But it’s still important to carry out safe maintenance to stop heavy grit and grime from being rubbed in and abrading the coating and the paintwork, causing the infliction of defects. Using coating-friendly pre-wash products, such as Citrus Power Bug and Grime Remover and Avalanche Snow Foam will also prevent damage to coatings because they don’t contain harsh acidic or alkaline cleaning agents that may etch into the top layer. It’s the same story for the shampoo you use in your two-bucket wash. Lather Car Shampoo is a great choice as it will never damage previously-applied coatings, but alternatively you can use Wash 'N' Gloss Car Shampoo or our Caramics Enhancing Shampoo to actively top-up and prolong the life and performance of your SiO2 coating as you wash paintwork, glass and all other exterior surfaces. Other products that are great for topping up during routine maintenance include Aqua Coat Hydrophobic Rinse Aid, Lavish Ceramic Foam, Caramics Gloss Enhancer, Caramics Glass Cleaner and Ceramic Spray Wax. When it comes to paint correction, all you have to remember is that Si02 coatings have to be allowed to chemically bond to the topcoat or lacquer layer, so it’s crucial to use a compound or a polish that doesn’t contain any waxes or fillers, because these extra layers will block the chemical bonding process. For paint correction, polishing and refinement before adding a coating, we’d recommend using products that only reveal a true finish, such as One Step All-in-One Compound, or our Revitalise System V2 Compounds (which are also available separately). Don’t forget that SiO2 coatings are extremely durable and can only be fully removed through abrasion, this means that polishing your vehicle using any abrasive after applying a ceramic coating will remove the Si02 layer, meaning that reapplication of protection will be required after you polish. For more on how to prepare a car for a ceramic coating, see our guide – Detailing and Ceramic Coating a New Car.